Charging issues on my SV650 battery keeps dying

[motomayhemmonday484]

I'm having some issues with my 2012 Suzuki SV650. The battery keeps dying even though I've replaced it with a new lithium pack. At first, I just thought I got a defective battery, but that wasn't the case.

I tested the stator and the regulator/rectifier (R/R), and both seemed to be working fine when I checked them. I even cleaned up all the connectors, especially that pesky green connector under the tank, but I'm still having the same problem.

Eventually, I performed a battery current leakage test and discovered a 250mA drain with the ignition off. It turns out, the R/R was leaking current, even though it passed all the diode tests. I ended up using a spare R/R from a friend's bike, and just like that, the charging voltage shot up to 14.4V. Now, the battery holds a charge perfectly.

Has anyone else run into a tricky R/R like this? I'd love any advice on what to check next or how to prevent this kind of hassle in the future

 

[TheOGFoodie]

I'm having some issues with my 2012 Suzuki SV650. The battery keeps dying even though I've replaced it with a new lithium pack. At first, I just thought I got a defective battery, but that wasn't the case.

I tested the stator and the regulator/rectifier (R/R), and both seemed to be working fine when I checked them. I even cleaned up all the connectors, especially that pesky green connector under the tank, but I'm still having the same problem.

Eventually, I performed a battery current leakage test and discovered a 250mA drain with the ignition off. It turns out, the R/R was leaking current, even though it passed all the diode tests. I ended up using a spare R/R from a friend's bike, and just like that, the charging voltage shot up to 14.4V. Now, the battery holds a charge perfectly.

Has anyone else run into a tricky R/R like this? I'd love any advice on what to check next or how to prevent this kind of hassle in the future

Yes, absolutely, it's notorious how a regulator/rectifier can pass basic diode tests but still fail in subtle ways, like causing a parasitic draw or regulating poorly under specific conditions (like after heating up).
It's a common complaint with older Suzuki R/Rs specifically, where the internal components might have a minor breakdown that doesn't show up on a simple continuity test. You did great sticking with it to find that draw!

 

[throttletwintuner]

Great job spotting the parasitic draw. Some R/R units can fail when they're under load or exposed to heat, even if they pass tests when everything's cold. Replacing it with a functioning one was definitely the way to go.

 

[Gaminghandle]

My dad taught me early on in my riding career that an RR unit should be replaced after about 10 years, even if it seems fine. He said that all those cycles are killing it over time until something happens and the problems become big. If I remember correctly I think he had a similar situation with one of his older bikes.